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<text><span class="style2">ne more thing:</span><span class="style3">This stack is Free to distribute. PLEASE DON'T CHANGE THIS STACK OR USE THIS STACK COMMERCIALLY WITHOUT CONTACTING ME. Let me know what you think, I tried to keep it simple yet cover most of the bases. Again DO drop me a line!Elwin LoomisTaylor Corporation 1725 Roe Crest DriveN Mankato, MN 56002(507)625-2828Applelink: Taylor.CorpAmerican Online: ElwinL</span></text>
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<text>Elwin Loomis works for Taylor Corporation as a member of what he calls the "Technical Task Force" though his real title is Systems Engineer. A technophile who loves toys;his specialty is in graphics arts industry, because "they've got the best toys around". When not fooling around on one project or another he plays blues harmonica, tunes his Irish Lap Harp (he made it and can tune it but can't play it), and reads tarot cards. Nobody in the corporation seems to understand him. But they invite him to their meetings 'cause they all know that he puts on a good show! ************************ click to continue ***********************</text>
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<text><span class="style2">alculator Card!</span><span class="style3">Enter the values in the fields and hit the calculate button and "Woosh!" the missing values will appear. You only need any two out of the three values, the third will be calculated automatically. By the way I just installed a button onto the first card thatwill bring you right to this card! (your reward for reading this far!)</span></text>
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<text>The grey levels are only crutial if you are producing a Photo, or something with a blend. Then you will want the highest grey levels you can get. A 133 lpi image is what you see inside most magazines, 150 - up are in most "Quality" books. If you want to see a good example of grey levels decreasing as LPI raises, try sending a photo to a laserwriter at 50 lpi, 70 lpi, 130 lpi, 160 lpi. You will notice that the picture "posterizes" at the higher LPI, this is because you don't have enough grey levels to produce that halftone screen. It's all a balancing act. A general rule of thumb is that you should use 2540 dpi to produce good 133 - 150 lpi halftone screens. 1270 dpi for good 80-120 screens. If you are experiencing "banding with blends" try raisng the DPI or decreasing the LPI (banding is caused by to few grey levels or blends)*********** Click on the field to exit ****************************************************</text>
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<text><span class="style2">uick Review </span><span class="style3">A printer prints in equal sized black dots. The number of these dots in an inch equals the printers </span><span class="style7">DPI. </span><span class="style3"> A halftone screen is made up of different sized dots aligned along equally spaced lines. The number of halftone lines in a inch equal the halftone screens </span><span class="style7">LPI</span><span class="style3">. To create the different sized dots in a halftone screen the printer must make them in a small matrix grid. The grid's size determines how many different sized halftone dots the printer can make: ie a 4 x 4 matrix gives 16 different sized dots, a 8 x 8 gives 64, 10 x 10 gives 100 ,and 16 x 16 gives 256. The number of halftone dot sizes the printer can makes equals the grey levels, the printer will be capable of producing. Postscript allows a maximum of 256 grey levels.Halftone screens don't need to be made up of only dots, some are made up of lines or ovals. Halftone screens are often rotated 45 degrees to help make the rows of dots less noticible.Don't worry you will not have to remember the formula because.....</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">ot Just Dots cont</span><span class="style3">Another common shape is the oval. I call these "special effect" dots because they produce a pretty strange halftone screen. If you have a product called Adobe Photoshop, Image Studio or Digital Darkroom. I suggest that you scan in a black and white photo and send it to a laserwriter at different settings. Keep the LPI the same in each case (55LPI works great on a 300 dpi Laserprinter) vary the angle between 0 and 90, vary the dot shape between: dot, line, and oval. I think you will find the effects to be pretty cool. You may not see much of a difference between dot, and oval but I assure you that the Line will flip you out. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">ot Just Dots</span><span class="style3">A halftone screen does not need to be made up of just different size dots. You can use all kinds of different shapes. One common "special effect" dot is the Line. Each cell is filled with a Line instead of a dot. Where the "greys" need to be heavy the Line is thicker where the "greys" are lighter the line is thinner. A totaly black area would have a filled cell (just like the dot screen but made up of lines) </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">creen Angle</span><span class="style3">Some clever person once noticed that if you rotated a screen 45 degrees, it was difficult to "perceve" the rows between the dots. Most halftone screens are created at 45 degrees for this reason. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">he Example</span><span class="style3">In our example we have a10 LPI Screen/HalftoneEach cell is divided up into16 dots or pixels acrossSo to do this we would require 160 DPI (10 LPI x 4 pixel cell width) Notice it takes more DPI toallow more typesof Halftone Dotswhich create moregrey levels. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">ore Grey Levels</span><span class="style3">16 levels of grey are not usually acceptable. To get the full 256 grey levels you would have to divide up a cell into 16 pixels across and 16 pixels down (16 x 16 = 256)so:4 x 4 = 16 halftone dots8 x 8 = 64 halftone dots16 x 16 = 256 halftone dots</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">ets tie in DPI</span><span class="style3">In our example we have a10 LPI Screen/HalftoneEach cell is divided up into4 dots or pixels acrossSo to do this we would require 40 DPI (10 LPI x 4 pixel cell width) So to create a 10 LPI screen with 16 levels of grey we would require 40 DPI. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">ets tie in DPI</span><span class="style3">In our example we have a10 LPI Screen/HalftoneEach cell is divided up into4 dots or pixels across</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">he Dots</span><span class="style3">From a 4x4 grid I can makeOnly 16 types of Halftone Dots. Also notice none ofthese dots are too round eh? So I can create 16 Halftone Dots and simulate 16 (17) Levels of Grey.</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">rey Levels</span><span class="style3">If I can create only 16sizes of Halftone Dots thenI only have 16 grey levels. Actually I have 17 grey levels, one being all white or an empty cell. Postscript has a limitation of only being able to create 256 grey levels. That means that you can only create 256 sizes of Halftone Dots. Thats not a bad limitation since you would be hard pressed to identify over 256 grey levels. (Unless you are doing color blends- but thats another story) </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">ctually..</span><span class="style3">We will only be able to make 16 Halftone Dots. I'll show that in a second, but first I am going to talk a little bit about Grey Levels.A Halftone dot that fills one entire cell in the grid would look black. One that only fills part of the cell, would give your eye the illusion that you were seeing "grey". The smaller the dot the lighter the "grey" right? </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">k..</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">We'll divide it up into a grid of 4 x 4 that way we can create lots of different size Halftone Dots, right?</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">ut.....</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">if we do that, we're going to need lots of dots. Lets take a simple example. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">ow to make a dot</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">We can make each halftone dot ofseveral smaller even square dots!</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">ow to make a dot</span><span class="style1"></span></text>
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<script>on opencardset lockscreen to trueset dragspeed to 180choose the select tooldrag from 329,134 to 349,154domenu "Copy Picture"go next carddomenu "Paste Picture"set lockscreen to falsedrag from 339,144 to 201,268drag from 194,259 to 32,95 with shiftkey,commandkeyset dragspeed to 0set lockscreen to truedrag from 222,287 to 1,35domenu "Cut Picture"choose browse toolgo to next cardset lockscreen to falseend opencard</script>
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<text><span class="style2">PI</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">So lets have a final def of LPI. LPI- Lines Per Inch, the number of halftone dots per inch. Now a laserprinter or an imagesetter can only create one size dot. So how can we make a laserprinter or an imagesetter make a variable size dot like the one we need to create a halftone?</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">PI</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">Now for my further discussion, I will superimpose a grid. Notice that the distance between the centers of the dots equals the cell width of my grid. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">PI</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">This distance is called the Lines Per Inch or LPI. Your newspapers print anywhere from a 60 LPI Halftone screen to a 90 LPI Halftone screen. Take a look and you will see the dots lined up in a row. The halftones dots in the paper are rotated 45 degrees (we'll talk about that later) so look sideways and you may see it better. In my example here you see a 10 LPI screen. This is because there are 10 lines in the inch. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">PI</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">The distance between each line is uniform, no matter what the size of the halftone dot is! </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">PI</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">Imagine lines running down the middle of each halftone dot.(click the next arrow button and then you dont have to imagine it)</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">creens</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">Screens are called out by percentages. A 100% screen is black. A 50% screen is a "grey" value that falls evenly between 0% (white) and 100% (black). Notice that my example screens have the same number of dots in a row. But the dots are different sized. You couldn't say that they have the same DPI, because DPI refers to dots that are all the SAME size. (remember my grid, all of the blocks were the same size)</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">alftone Dots...</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">The dots that make up a screen are called Halftone Dots. And they, like people, come in different sizes. The larger the size the darker a group of them look to the eye. If you look at a photo with a maginifying glass you will see that the dots are larger in the darker areas. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">hy Screens?</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">A laserprinter, Imagesetter, and Printing Press can NOT do shades of a color. They print in SOLID dots. Take a magnifying glass and look at a printed piece of paper. You will see dots making up the image. If you are looking at a colored piece you'll see a pattern of dots called a rosette. Your eye blends those dots together, and you "see" grey tones, or color in the case of a color piece. Just like Hypercard can't do color (I know you can get around that-- just play along ok!) it uses dot patterns to simulate grey tones. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">HH!</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">Ahh! herein lies the rub. If all you had to produce is type, well 1270 DPI would probably do fine for you. But most people like pretty pictures. And if you want anything more than type you are probably going to run into halftones, screen tints and god forbid process color. And if you run in to any of these you will have to tackle LPI, Screen Angle, and Screen Percent. To produce screens the imaging device needs higher resolution. Why you might ask? Well, hit the button and you'll find out!</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">PI:</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">Thats a lot of data! Most imagesetters can be set at different resolutions. For example the Linotronic 300 can be set at 600 DPI, 1270 DPI, and 2540 DPI. The Linotronic 330 and the AGFA Selectset 5000 can go at resolutions above 3000 dpi. You probably wonder why anyone would want to image at higher than 3000 DPI. I mean type looks pretty darn good at 1270 DPI. And without a loupe (one of those nifty magnifying glasses that all of the Printing people have hanging around their necks) you would be hard pressed to see a difference in that type. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">PI:</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">I guess we should start out with </span><span class="style4">DPI</span><span class="style3">. DPI stands for Dots Per Inch. This is the maximum number of black dots that your imaging device can produce per inch. Rememer DPI is a linear measurement. My 10 dpi image over there occupies 100 dots in a square inch.Most of you out there have 300 DPI laserprinters. Whenever you complain that the printer is out of memory, just remember that little printer has to handle 30,000 dots in one square inch! or 2,805,000 dots in one 81/2 x 11 page!</span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">PI:</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">I guess we should start out with </span><span class="style4">DPI</span><span class="style3">. DPI stands for Dots Per Inch. This is the maximum number of black dots that your imaging device can produce per inch. This grid is 10 by 10 squares:if this grid was one inch long thedivice would be said to be capable of printing 10 dpi. Notice that each dot FILLS my grid completly. When talking DPI every dot is the same size. (Big deal eh... it becomes one later so hold on to your hat) By the way I filled every other dot so you could see a dot individually. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style2">PI:</span><span class="style1"></span><span class="style3">I guess we should start out with </span><span class="style4">DPI</span><span class="style3">. DPI stands for Dots Per Inch. This is the maximum number of black dots that your imaging device can produce per inch. </span></text>
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<text><span class="style5">elcome, You're gonna become a Graphic Nerd!</span><span class="style3">In this stack, I have explained a little more about the inner workings of imaging devices. Particularly Postscript devices like Laserprinters and Imagesetters (Linotronic's et al). I talk mostly about the background theory that these devices use to put their dots on the paper. Hopefully after you have went through this stack you will get a better understanding when some "guru" tells you that you can't produce a good150 Line per inch image on a 1270 dpi imaging device. (hmm..) You'll learn what LPI means and DPI means and their relationship. The Graphic Nerd is my first attempt at explaining all this, and I did it in one night. I encourage you to let me know what you think! </span></text>
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<text>This is the first in (hopefully) a series of Tutorials to help the common man understand some of the background behind the mystifying technology surrounding the graphics arts field of today.If you find this first installment to be useful. PLEASE contact me and let me know! This stack is Copyrighted 1991 by Elwin Loomis. You may pass this stack around (and I encourage you to do so) BUT ONLY in its original unaltered state. If you want to alter it or you want one personalized for you or your company (training tools are great and you to can have your companies logo put here) Contact me. I'm a nice guy and I respond well to warm fuzzies. Elwin LoomisTaylor Corporation1725 Roe Crest DriveN. Mankato, MN 56002AOL: ElwinL Applelink: Taylor.CorpAnyway get yourself a cup of tea and some cookies and press the button below to begin. </text>
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